I don't get it ... for me CSS is very easy. It's logic and clear. But yes you have to learn and work with it. It's ok ... so not everybody can master it drive-by and call themselfs an expert.
My problem with CSS is not so much with its idiosyncrasies - though I still find myself getting tripped up by ::pseudo-elements when they're used for anything more than show-off quote marks.
Rather, it's with the way people use it.
For instance when working with a code base handed over to me for maintenance, it's often been the case that the code has already passed through several previous developers/companies. And a lot of those people have fixed presentational bugs over the years by adding !important rules in various places across the various CSS files that contribute to the site. It drives me nuts! Also: commenting out huge swathes of CSS code in a file, but not deleting it ... just in case it's needed again. Why??
The other thing that concerns me is the way new functionality gets added to the CSS spec. Take animations - do they belong in the CSS code, or Javascript? Yes CSS animations are (generally) faster, but the more complex the animation, the harder I find it to understand a CSS implementation. And it's gonna get worse in the future thanks to CSS Animation Worklets, which are being developed as part of the CSS Houdini thing.
There comes a point when I have to decide: CSS or Javascript. I can't keep up with developments in both, and I enjoy coding Javascript more than CSS. </end-self-pitying-moan>